Why everyone over the age of 25 should be incorporating retinol into their skin routine
If you’ve been diving into the skincare world, you've probably come across retinol, also known as Vitamin A, and often advertised as the go-to ingredient for tackling signs of ageing. But at the same time, you might've also heard some concerns about how harsh it can be on the skin. So what’s the real story? How does it actually work, and what should you keep in mind when choosing a retinoid? I want to clear up some of the confusion around Vitamin A and share what I’ve learned, especially since we start losing about 1% of our collagen each year from our mid-to-late twenties (scary, right?). Personally, I think adding a product like Vitamin A into your routine can really help slow that down and keep your skin looking fresh and youthful.
Let’s take a quick look at how it all works — You’ve probably heard the word “retinol” thrown around a lot in skincare, but what you might not know is, that it’s actually part of a bigger group called “retinoids.” Think of retinoids like a family, and retinol is just one member. There are a few different “siblings” in this family, and they each work a little differently. Don’t worry—it’s not as complicated as it sounds, so let’s break it down in a simple way.
Retinoic acid is the most potent form of retinoids, and it's the final stage in the process once the retinoid has been absorbed into the skin. All retinoids start as Vitamin A, and once they penetrate the skin, they’re converted into retinoic acid. The conversion process varies depending on the specific retinoid, which also influences the side effects and results you'll experience
Retinyl palmitate - The Gentle Starter
Retinyl palmitate is a gentle form of vitamin A. When you apply it to your skin, your body slowly converts it into retinol, then into retinaldehyde, and finally into retinoic acid—which is the active form, that actually works on your skin.
This process takes time, which is why retinyl palmitate is much gentler than stronger retinoids. So this is great if you’re super sensitive, however it will take a lot longer to see the amazing results that Vitamin A can give!
Retinol - The Middle Ground
Retinol is a step stronger than retinyl palmitate and converts in the skin within two steps before becoming active. Retinol is probably the most common found form of Vitamin A and you’ll find this version in skincare products—it’s super common and easy to buy without needing a prescription.
Retinaldehyde (Retinal) – The Fast-Acting Option
One notch down the ladder is Retinaldehyde, a form of Vitamin A that needs to do one conversion before it transforms into Retinoic Acid. This ingredient offers speedy results, but with slightly fewer side effects than a prescription retinoid acid. It’s also the strongest type of Retinoid you can purchase over the counter.
Tretinoin (Retinoic Acid) – The Prescription Powerhouse
Retinoic Acid is the purest form of Vitamin A, directly affecting the skin without needing conversion. Tretinoin, also known as trans retinoic acid, is a prescription-only version of retinoic acid used to treat serious skin issues like acne, sun damage, and aging. Unlike retinol, it enters the skin quickly and delivers faster results. However, it can lead to side effects known as a retinoid reaction (which we’ll explain in more detail later). Due to its potency, it’s essential to consult a doctor or dermatologist before using tretinoin, as improper use can lead to increased skin sensitivity and accelerate ageing
Isotretinoin/Roaccutane
Isotretinoin, or Roaccutane is prescription only, oral form of Vitamin A, used to treat severe acne by reducing oil production, preventing clogged pores, and decreasing inflammation. While highly effective, it should be taken under medical supervision due to potential side effects.
So what are the benefits of Retinol and how does it work within each layer of the skin
SURFACE LAYER
When we first start using Vitamin A, it begins by working on the top layers of the skin. This is why we might experience some dryness and flakiness at the beginning. Vitamin A targets old, dead skin cells, identifies that they no longer serve a purpose, and helps shed them more quickly. This process leads to smoother skin, a more even tone, and better product absorption since the buildup of dead skin cells isn't blocking the way.
EPIDERMAL LAYERS
Once vitamin A has helped repair the surface of the skin, it starts working deeper into the epidermal layers.
Within these layers, we have stem cells, which are like the "mother cells" responsible for creating all the other cells in the epidermis. Here’s how it works: a stem cell copies its genetic material inside the nucleus, then divides into two cells. One of these new cells begins its journey upward toward the surface of the skin, eventually becoming part of the outer layer.
However, stem cells can be damaged by things like UV exposure, free radicals, and environmental stress. When they’re damaged, the skin can’t produce new, healthy cells as efficiently or at the right speed. This can lead to slower healing, clogged pores, pigmentation issues, and a thinner, weaker epidermis with a longer cell turnover cycle.
When vitamin A supports the repair of these cells, it helps restore the skin’s ability to renew itself properly—leading to stronger, clearer, and more resilient skin over time.
DERMAL LAYER
Fibroblasts are the cells in the dermis that produce key proteins like collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid—all of which help keep your skin firm, plump, and youthful.
Over time, fibroblasts can become damaged or sluggish due to ageing, sun exposure, and other environmental stressors. When this happens, they produce less collagen and elastin, leading to thinner skin, sagging, and the formation of lines and wrinkles.
This is where vitamin A comes in. It helps repair and reactivate fibroblasts, restoring their ability to produce these essential proteins more effectively.
On top of that, Vitamin A acts as a collagen precursor, meaning it plays a key role in helping fibroblasts actually create new collagen—making it a must-have ingredient for maintaining healthy, youthful-looking skin
Some other key benefits for various skin concerns include:
PIGMENTATION
Pigmentation issues—like dark spots, freckles, melasma, and uneven patches—occur when melanin, the pigment in our skin, becomes overactive. This can be triggered by sun exposure, hormones, or inflammation, leading to areas of discoloration.
Vitamin A helps in two powerful ways. First, it speeds up cell turnover, which means that pigmented, damaged skin cells are shed more quickly and replaced with fresh, even-toned ones. Second, it interacts with the enzyme called tyrosinase, which plays a key role in melanin production. Vitamin A helps to regulate and calm this enzyme, reducing excess pigment at the source.
The result? A brighter, more even complexion over time with consistent use!
ACNE
Vitamin A is a game-changer for acne-prone and congested skin. It works by speeding up cell turnover, helping your skin shed dead cells before they clog pores. This keeps breakouts and blackheads at bay.
Within the skin, we have our sebaceous glands that produce sebum. This is vital in keeping our skin moisturised and functioning properly, however, when your skin over produces sebum, it often leads to congestion. Retinol helps to regulate the sebaceous glands, by preventing them from becoming overactive.
REDNESS
While Vitamin A can sometimes cause redness and irritation as your skin adjusts, it offers long- term benefits for calming sensitivity. It has anti-inflammatory properties that reduce redness. It also helps strengthen the skin’s natural barrier, making it more resilient to irritation. Over time, it improves skin texture, reducing uneven tone and redness, especially from conditions like rosacea or acne marks.
For best results, start slow and use a moisturiser and sunscreen to protect your skin as it builds tolerance.
So how do I get the best results?
When it comes to adding a retinoid to your skincare routine, there’s no one-size-fits-all answer— what works best depends on your skin type and specific concerns.
That said, Vitamin A is a potent ingredient, so it’s important to use it with caution, to avoid potential skin irritation and damage.
When you first start using retinoids, it’s common to experience purging or peeling as your skin speeds up cell turnover. This usually settles down after a few weeks. But if you notice redness or irritation, it’s a sign you might be using it too often or not layering your products properly. This is called a retinoid reaction.
When you first use a Vitamin A product, it can cause skin cells to renew too quickly, which may disrupt your skin barrier, leading to peeling and irritation. If your skin is gradually introduced to retinol, it’s less likely to have this reaction. For skin that’s not used to retinoids, the body may overreact by sending extra blood to the area to cope, causing heat and swelling.
To avoid this, it’s best to introduce it slowly into your routine. Start by using a pea-sized amount every third night for the first week. Then, increase to every second night for the next week, and eventually use it nightly.
If you experience a retinoid response, it’s your skin’s way of telling you that it’s too much, too soon. Just take a step back, reduce the frequency, and let your skin gradually adjust.
Here are a few simple tips to help you avoid these issues and get the best out of it:
• Start slow—use it once or twice a week, then gradually increase to every other night.
• Avoid mixing with exfoliating acids like glycolic acid, as they can increase sensitivity.
• Always rinse your face in the morning and don’t forget to apply SPF!
• If redness, tightness, or discomfort persist, try a gentler formula or reduce the frequency of use.
• Apply retinol in your evening routine only
A common misconception about Vitamin A is that it makes your skin more sensitive to the sun. While UV rays can break down Vitamin A in the skin, this is why you should only apply it at night. Although retinol itself doesn’t directly increase sun sensitivity, you still need to wear sunscreen! Retinol helps exfoliate dead skin cells, which means the newer, more delicate skin on the surface is more vulnerable to sun damage. So, always make sure to protect it with SPF during the day
Retinol and Pregnancy – What You Need to Know
In general, Vitamin A is not considered safe to use during pregnancy or breastfeeding. This caution comes from studies showing that oral forms of Vitamin A, like isotretinoin, can cause birth defects. While topical Vitamin A is absorbed in much smaller amounts and breaks down significantly by the time it reaches deeper layers of the skin, most experts still recommend to play it safe. So, if you're pregnant and currently using a topical retinol—don’t panic and stop using it.
However, iS Clinical's Retinol Emulsion offers a unique alternative. Unlike traditional formulations, it uses botanical-based retinol encapsulated in liposomes, allowing the ingredient to work directly on the skin without entering the bloodstream. This advanced delivery system makes it a safer option during pregnancy and breastfeeding.
That said, always check with your doctor or dermatologist before introducing any new skincare products during this time to make sure they’re right for you and your baby
So what do we have to offer here at Simply Skin & Laser Clinic?
iS Clinical’s Retinol+ Emulsion line includes two powerful yet skin-friendly options: 0.3% for beginners and 1.0% for experienced users. Both formulas feature botanical-derived retinol, encapsulated in bio-identical lipids for better absorption and reduced irritation. To protect and soothe the skin, they’re boosted with:
• Bakuchiol – A plant-based retinol alternative that enhances results while soothing skin
• Antioxidants – To fight environmental stress
• Extremozymes® – Enzyme technology that protects and strengthens skin
It is recommended to start with the 0.3%, especially if you’re new to retinol or have sensitive skin. It improves texture, evens tone, and minimizes fine lines—without irritation. Most users are encouraged to go through 2–3 bottles before consulting with one of our trained skin therapists about upgrading to the 1.0%, a more intensive treatment that targets deep wrinkles, sun damage, and loss of firmness.
Pro tip: Don’t rush into the stronger formula—even though it’s amazing! Start slow and build your skin’s tolerance for the best results.
At clinic, we also love the Payot Lisse Retinol Renewing Night serum that blends science and botanicals to offer smoother, more radiant skin overnight. It’s a gentle way to get all the benefits of retinol—without the drama.
Here’s how it works:
Key Ingredient: 0.3% Pure Retinol
This well-balanced dose of retinol boosts cell turnover, helping to reduce fine lines, smooth texture, and reveal a more radiant complexion over time.
Powered by Nature
Formulated with 98% natural-origin ingredients, including nourishing organic oils like sesame, macadamia, and jojoba, it hydrates and softens skin while preventing the dryness often associated with retinol use.
Exfoliates While You Sleep
The serum’s gentle exfoliating (keratolytic) action helps shed dead skin cells, unclog pores, and refine texture—all without harsh scrubbing
So in-conclusion — After extensive clinical research, it’s clear that retinoids play a powerful role in skincare. They help boost collagen production, reduce acne, repair sun damage, and support healthier, more youthful-looking skin—exactly what most of us are after. In short, retinoids can make a noticeable difference in both the appearance and texture of your skin, often giving your confidence a serious lift. It’s one of the few ingredients the skin truly needs to function at its best and addresses a wide range of concerns.